Friday, July 24, 2009

Le Salon de Josephine: Les Incroyables et Merveilleuses...




Bonjour! Here's a continuation of Theresa Cabarrus and Josephine…


It’s no surprise that Josephine is often referred to as a fashion icon. Josephine and her friends, especially Theresa, were long known for wearing the latest fashions and setting new trends. And, although there was a certain regality and poise about Josephine that was ever present, even before her becoming Empress…Ever wonder, how it became that she was also known as a ‘Merveilleuse’?


‘Les Incroyables et Merveilleuses’, was the name given to followers of a fashion movement that evolved in consequence of the period of ‘Terreur.’ It encompassed not only a fashion statement, but a political one as well. At its extreme, the trend went as far as people altering their speech…


Les Incroyables imposed a new dress fashion and distinct hairstyles that often involved having one’s hair shaven or pulled back at the nape to resemble and commemorate those who had been condemned to death. It was not uncommon for many of these fashionable ones to walk around with a knotted sort of club that they would use to thrash any Jacobins-type passer-bys. So fanatically pushed were these Incroyables that they also altered their pronunciation; to reflect their total aversion to the Revolution that they actually omitted all ‘r’ sounds from their speech. Les ‘Incroyables’ was therefore pronounced : ‘Inc oyables’- complete conversations were had in this newly developed jargon.


After having been imprisoned, but before meeting Napoleon, Josephine and her friend Theresa were often called, Les Merveilleuses (the Marvelous ones). The fashion style of Les Merveilleuses called for less rigidity than that of Les Incroyables. These trend setters dressed with the more flowing Greco-Romano style of muslin and light fabric tunics; every style bearing different names such as, the Minerva, the Diana, La Fore…their sandals lacing up their ankles with ribbons or pearled strings. The queen of this fashion, Theresa herself, loved wearing expensive jeweled rings on her toes and bangle-bracelets on her calves. Hair was then worn short and curly resembling those of ancient Romans.


Many of these Merveilleuses indulged in being the center of attention and stopped at nothing to get themselves noticed. Many were known to stroll with poise and confidence through public gardens and parks wearing the sheerest and most audaciously transparent of dresses. Consequently, this scandalized the regular folk and an awful stigma of indecency and frivolity followed these fashionistas to their dismay…Theresa though, was seemingly unperturbed and refused to conform.


Fortunately for her, Theresa’s style was anything but cramped in the salons she often visited. She was a prominent guest at Barras salon; a man who also enjoyed extravagances and worldly pleasures.


Of all the unlikely places, it was in this very salon that the young and seemingly inexperienced Bonaparte was introduced to Josephine. And, even though our favorite lady was by no means as extreme or outrageously overt as Theresa, it was of no coincidence that Bonaparte later forbid Josephine to keep any contact with Theresa. The Emperor did not want his wife to be remembered as having had any associations with a lady, in his opinion, of such shady reputation…








Here is a caricature of Barras and two dancing women (probably in his salon), by James Gillray (1805)



Picture sources: http://revolution.1789.free.fr/page-10.htm
http://www.lamesure.org/archive-10-2007.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Fran%C3%A7ois_Jean_Nicolas,_vicomte_de_Barras

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15 comments:

Lauren said...

I am inspired to pick up some toe rings!

Ingrid Mida said...

The translucency of the dresses worn during this period in history were truly shocking, especially when you compare them to the ornate fashions of the anciene regime.
This morning I was working on an essay on the crinoline of the 1860s. It almost seems like that later in the century fashion went to another extreme in burying women under heavy petticoats. Fashion is endlessly fascinating! Thanks for writing a brilliant post about it!

Allie ~ Hist-Fic Chick said...

Very interesting - I work in the fashion industry and love learning about its history. Josephine's Grecian garb was also a source of inspiration for 1920s dancer Isadora Duncan's flowy, bohemian style. I've seen the Gillray cartoon before and if I'm not mistaken I believe the two dancing women are actually meant to represent Josephine and Theresa Tallien. It mentions their names in the fine print of the caption. I could be off base here but perhaps the image of the two dancing naked behind a sheer sheet was meant as a figurative statement that their clothing was so sheer and risque for the time that they may as well have been strutting around salons in the buff. Or...maybe it's just meant to demonstrate Barras's extravagant lifestyle. Either way, a very cool post!

Allie

The Dreamstress said...

Great post! I'm pretty familiar with the Incroyables and the Marveilliusses, but I wasn't aware that Josephine had a link to them.

Lucy said...

Hi Everybody- Thanks so much for your comments:)

HistFicChick- I was sure somebody would bring that up eventually..I'm glad you did. The caricature is dated Feb. 1805- and by then Josephine was already Empress (1804. There were a great many many ladies who were regulars at Barras salon and obviously JoJo and Theresa were there quite often..There have been many insinuations and certainly Gillray being the artist that he was, must have used his caricatures to insinuate or even attract...nonetheless, unlike a photo, an illustration may all have been part of the artist's creative perception. The interpretations are many...and still not absolutely clear. Thanks so much for your insight on this:)

sallymandy said...

This was fascinating as always Ms Lucy! I loved it. Have never before heard of either the Incroyables or Merveilleuses, or the habit of changing the language. I just love this stuff. Thank you very much. I've been away from your awesome blog too long.

Allie ~ Hist-Fic Chick said...

Ms. Lucy - Bravo! I am so glad to learn there are people out there as "enchanted" by Josephine as I am. She's a fascinating one, isn't she? Such a strong woman. I stand corrected =)

Allie

Napoleona said...

Weirdo fashion, having your head shaved...
Thanks Ms. Lucy, I didn't even know about the Incoyables and the Jacobin-flogging...

Lucy said...

I have to admit- that was really weird..shaved heads as a reminder of la guillotine... Thanks for your comment Napoleona:)

Unknown said...

huhu

gama1129 said...

....The merveilleuses even went as far as going out to the "victims balls" dripping wet in their chiffon dresses in the cold of the winter to imitate the fine draping of the greek statues and some would catch pneumonia and die!......Suffer for fashion once more but not for the first time in history...
We have gone very far from this stylish concept with our conception of "comfortable " and "wearable" clothes , some of us have entire wardrobe of styless track suits and t-shirts!.... I want to die beautiful, not comfortable!...

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